Our Wandering Palate West Australian correspondent, Terry Chellappah, has been wandering a long way from home, in England and France, but he’s back in Margaret River although his head in still in burgundy. Even though it sends pangs of yearn, he shares their gastronomic discoveries.
My good friend Terry Chellappah, a true Wandering Palate and contributor to our website, reports in from Kilcarnup Beach in Margaret River, Western Australia. He signals the weather is PERFECT as was the line-up of Champagne’s and those funny, salty little black eggs that come in a tin.
Good to see that he is celebrating Christmas in style, and certainly in a unique place.
One of the world’s leading authorities on Champagne, Peter Liem, is conducting a tasting in New York, at Matsuri Restaurant, The Maritime Hotel, that will involve a discussion of the role of terroir in Champagne, illustrated by a tasting of three producers from very different areas: José Michel in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay, Thierry Triolet in the Sézanne, and R. Dumont in the Aube.
Came across this mixed dozen offering from Berry Bros & Rudd, which struck me as not only as very good value but an ideal mix of regions and styles. And more importantly, organically grown grapes. Interesting to see Dominique Lafon using screwcap closure for his Macon Blanc, unquestionably the right way to go and should rattle the cages in this conservative part of the vinous world.
The Champagne Larmandier Bernier Premier Cru ‘Tradition’ Extra Brut is what real Champagne is all about, none of this high-dosage lolly water here, this is pristine, invigorating, captivating Champagne.
Distinguishing terroir in a single vineyard Champagne
There is no question Champagne is a very unique region and its wines distinctive in their “sense of place”, resonating terroir. There is however some debate that truly distinctive terroir cannot be achieved in a wine that is blended from multiple regions and vintages. Perhaps the interpretation of terroir itself is being misinterpreted as it is the relationship between the soil, climate – the environment – and man himself that defines terroir. Without man and the idiosyncrasies of vignerons terroir does not exist.
Burghound Unrivalled Passion for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
“The Burghound Phenomenon. Burgundy lends itself to obsessives, what with its hundreds of growers, thousands of named vineyards and maddening variations in vintages. The world’s foremost Burgundy expert – who, thankfully, is also in possession of an acute palate – is Los Angeles-based Allen Meadows… No Burgundy lover leaves home for the retail shop without a copy.” – Matt Kramer, Diversion Magazine.
Asia, the last continent – Jancis Robinson MW (Financial Times May 2010)
“It is no exaggeration to say that Asia has become the focus of the world’s fine-wine trade. But the Asian wine scene is very much more than Hong Kong and China. Japan and Singapore have long histories of connoisseurship.”
The Wandering Palate is heading to our Melbourne residence for the festive season and preparations for the Christmas day feast are already well in hand.
Priority of course is procuring the appropriate turkey, and I can tell you after enduring a commercial frozen turkey from the USA for the last three years here in Singapore, we are looking forward to a free-range, chemical-free, wholesome, flavoursome bird (one of the issues Singapore has yet to come to terms with) moreover, at a third of the price!