The Wandering Palate – Best of the Lunar Year – Wine Book of the Year 2011 – Cool Climate Wines 媒体资料白葡萄酒经典 by Michael Thurner & Susie Wu

I always approach the Wandering Palate ‘Wine Book of the Year’ with trepidation, partly because wine books can be rather droll for the average reader or even wine consumer, notwithstanding research style works are indeed useful.At the same time I think of the painstaking work and an inordinate amount of time and effort that the author/s has undertaken in accomplishing such a tome. And yet publishing is a tough business and readers merciless with many titles undeservedly ending up in the bargain bins before their time.

The fact is wine writing titles have a limited audience and very much a niche market. That said, every now and there is a work or topic that has a much wider audience and relevance to a growing market sector, trend or fashion that is undergoing exponential growth.

One such bourgeoning market and topical subject is China: the new wine frontier.

In co-authoring ‘Cool Climate Wines’, Michael Thurner and Susie Wu boldly go where few wine writers have ventured in conceiving a book not only exclusively published in Mandarin but challenging the conventional wisdom that the Chinese will only drink red wine with the book centred on predominantly white cool climate wines from Austria, Alsace and Germany.

There is an underpinning ascertain in their theme and prose that ultimately, white wines will in fact be more popular than red in Mainland China, and all Chinese culture around the world.

How do they arrive at this hypothesis?

Their assumptions are based around the realism or pragmatism that the Chinese, no matter where they are living, are totally obsessed with food. The adage “The Chinese do not eat to live, rather they live to eat” rings true and this fixation with foods authenticity and regionalism has no less fervour and dedication than say for comparison, Italians, and one would expect this eventually extends to wine.

Many people are unaware that wine culture has existed in China since the beginning of civilization and the patronizing tones that I sense from the west are clearly the assumptions of the ignorant.

In a society that has undergone a tumultuous evolution and now fast-evolving capitalism and bourgeoning cosmopolitan growth, there is perhaps too many comparatives to western culture and clearly Anglo-Saxon orthodoxy has no place.

The induction of wine into our daily lives is rarely a question of erudition; rather an issue of poverty or prosperity and simply many people cannot afford such a luxury. And yet wine has played a pivotal role in all classes of society over the millennium and the poor often reliant on a daily ration of wine.

This is true of China as much as it was of the Roman Empire, however it has been rice wine and fermentations of strong alcohols that have been the staple of Chinese rural classes and lower income groups.

China is however experiencing a surge of middle-class incomes and aspirations and an urbanization and creation of metropolis and mega-cities that ferments a different kind of compotation and social lubrication more akin to the west with vitis vinifera wines from all over the world now jockey for position, and that ever-elusive market share.

No point in avoiding the blatantly obvious Chinese love affair with Château Lafite however one needs to put this brand obsession into perspective, that it is the super-wealthy that have been seduced by this wine porn and this vinous licentiousness is already on the wane as the more sophisticated middle-class look for authenticity and a genuine wine and food (pairing) experience.

Cool Climate Wines

And this is where Cool Climate Wines breaks new ground, in its profound statement and content that addresses what is in reality, the most suitable wines and wine regions for many Chinese cuisines and dishes.

Of even more relevance is Wu and Thurners approach to the ultra-complex and often intimidating topic and language of (table) wine, to which they have adopted a rationale and analogy to tea, inherent in Chinese culture to make the subject more legible and easier to understand the multiplicity of intricacies in wine.

This approach has sound logic when you consider Chinese tea culture is much older and entrenched than western wine culture and in Chinese tea language they always talk about ‘tannins, body, flavour, etc’ in a vernacular very similar to wine moreover, there is thorough understanding of what tea pairs with precise dishes and flavours – wine, tea and food synchronicity.

Encapsulating this synthesis, all grape varieties are given Chinese tea related names so the reader can relate them in terms of familiar flavours and structures with Wu and Thurner tasting together in China over 100 teas to ascertain the most correct tea name and characteristics.  

Cool Climate Wines is not entirely about white wine though and whilst focusing on Alsace, Austria and Germany which obviously involves considerable coverage of whites, all these countries and regions produce red wines, though generally because of high altitude and cool-climate are elegant, soft-tannin wines with grape varieties such as pinot noir to the fore.

It is a monumental work; 400 pages, 800 pictures, 129 wineries and over 1000 wines tasted and rated. And yes, it is all in Mandarin too which I can sense the apathy from the western corner, or anyone outside of Chinese culture however, think of how many Chinese people you know yourself, and how brilliant this book would make for a gift and bridge between cultures.

As much as this Cool Climates Wines is relevant to countries like Singapore, Malaysia, Taiwan or enclaves of Chinese everywhere, it is clearly aimed at the mainland China market and it has already achieved unquestionable credibility within the market as its co-author Susie Wu is the most famous writer of wine books with ten tittles already published, is considered as one of the most influential wine persons in China.

Wu is a native of Shanghai and studied at the Academy in Peking and Bordeaux before she started working for a wine importer and subsequently wine writing. Wu also writes articles and columns in national magazines and newspapers and for many years has published her own webpage and is constantly blogging on

Wu’s co-author, Michael Thurner, is perhaps the master of firsthand knowledge of these wine regions in the collaboration, with his native Austrian background and extensive wine industry experience.

Thurner was formally the Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board in Vienna and also Chairman of the Board of the Austrian Wine Academy. Moreover Thurner is armed with a Wine MBA and after his successful Austrian wine marketing career he opened his own consulting company engaged in brand building, distribution support and organizing events and congresses.

Realising the potential in the fast-developing nations of the East, Thurner moved to Singapore to better understand the Asian wine markets and has established himself as the most enterprising and charismatic wine force in the region. Indeed the “The Wandering Palate” awarded Thurner “The most dynamic marketer of the year in Asia” last year.

Thurner also writes for magazines and online publications on food, wine and travel along with tutoring on ‘International Wine Marketing and Wine Markets’ at the “Hong Kong University.

Clearly there was a wine book in Thurner however; he is way too savvy, ambitious and visionary to have embarked on an orthodox wine book published in English or German and testament to his pioneering spirit he sensed collaboration with Susie Wu into a relatively untapped market craving wine knowledge would be far more rewarding and a far better use of his knowledge.

Susie Wu and Michael Thurner book launch

A little on the publisher, Horizon Media Co. Ltd. is a Beijing based subsidiary of the Shanghai Century Publishing Company, the biggest and leading book publisher in China. More than 800 sales people and an internet shop guarantee optimum distribution throughout this vast country.

Horizon published more than 160 books last year about Wine, Lifestyle, Biography, History, Art, Science and Academic classics.

I doubt if there is a wine publication released this year anywhere on this planet that will more impact on wine evolution and enhancing the development of arguably the most important market in the world than Cool Climate Wines 媒体资料白葡萄酒经典 and is the ultimate tool for Wine Feng Shui.

Without stating the obvious, it will be THE perfect gift for Chinese New Year, January 22nd, 2012. It is widely available in Mainland China, more information at

Equally it will make for a great Christmas present however you had best get on to Michael Thurner quickly to organise copies as outside of Mainland China, the book is only available direct through him at a retail price of SGD $85 per copy. Email;

Footnote: The website domain and copyright for “Wine Feng Shui” is the property of The Wandering Palate.

Below is an introduction to Cool Climate Wines媒体资料白葡萄酒经典 – in Mandarin.


分类: 酒类 生活类 19.01



著者:吴书仙   【奥地利】迈克尔·托纳   著

开本:8开     字数: 336千字     页数:400    内文印刷:四色


责任编辑:刘宇婷    联系方式:021-53594508-2423

◆ 本书卖点——————————————————————————————————————




◆ 作者简介——————————————————————————————————————

吴书仙(Susie Wu






迈克尔·托纳(Michael Thurner)



2007年,他决定开创自己的事业,他成立了奥地利品牌美酒公司(Austria’s Fine Brands),并移居新加坡,主要向亚洲和美国消费者推广奥地利葡萄酒文化,经常在香港的大学做讲座。迈克尔·托纳的格言是:根植欧洲,拓展在亚洲和美国!

◆ 内容简介——————————————————————————————————————



◆ 目录——————————————————————————————————————————

前 言

序 言

第一章 总体印象

第一节  阴性、纯净、复杂

第二节  山坡(Berg)葡萄园

第三节  岩韵

第四节  天人合一

第五节  健康与佐餐

第六节  欧洲葡萄酒的两大派别

第二章 奥地利葡萄酒

第一节  奥地利葡萄酒法规

第二节  DAC

第三节  奥地利葡萄酒厂民间组织

第四节  奥地利葡萄酒的历史

第五节  奥地利的气候

第六节  奥地利葡萄品种

第七节  奥地利葡萄酒产区

第八节  奥地利葡萄酒佐餐

第三章 奥地利葡萄酒厂

第一节  穆尔-倪伯特(Muhr-van der Niepoort)酒厂

第二节  优奥车杰(Jurtschitsch)酒厂

第三节  弗雷德·劳也美尔(Fred Loimer)酒厂

第四节  布恩格玛雅(Bründlmayer) 酒厂

第五节  古北斯布格城堡(Schloss Gobelsburg)酒厂

第六节  黑德勒赫(Hiedler)酒厂

第七节  路德维克·瑙依玛雅(Ludwig Neumayer)酒厂

第八节  帕立拉(Prieler)酒厂

第九节  约翰尼斯郝夫·海尼喜(Johanneshof Reinisch)酒厂

第十节  玛科维奇( Markowitsch)酒厂

第十一节 韩德瑞西(Gernot Heinrich)酒厂

第十二节 尼特瑙斯(Anita & Hans Nittnaus)酒厂

第十三节 袍客(Pöckl)酒厂

第十四节 保罗·阿克斯(Paul Achs)酒厂

第十五节  迈克斯·胡贝尔(Markus Huber)酒厂

第十六节  彼特瑙悟(Pittnauer)酒厂

第十七节  尤瑞斯(Juris)酒厂

第十八节  喔玛通(Umathum)酒厂

第十九节  旗达(Angerhof Tschida)酒厂

第二十节  格莱士( Kracher)酒厂

第二十一节 阿达宏(Arachon T. FX. T.)酒厂

第二十二节 构思尔曼(Gesellmann)酒厂

第二十三节 格劳斯(Gross)酒厂

第二十四节 提蒙特(Tement)酒厂

第二十五节 埃瑞赫·瓦尔特·袍兹(Erich & Walter Polz)酒厂

第二十六节 赛特勒郝夫(Sattlerhof)酒厂

第二十七节 维尼格尔(Weninger)酒厂

第二十八节 穆勒酒庄(Domäne Müller)

第二十九节 伊氏(Esterházy)酒厂

第三十节  莫里赐(Moric)酒厂

第三十一节 阿琴(Alzinger)酒厂

第三十二节 瓦豪庄园(Domäne Wachau)酒厂

第三十三节 恩斯地堡(Ernst Triebaumer)酒厂

第三十四节 费勒-阿廷根(Feiler-Artinger)酒厂

第三十五节 福奇(Fritsch)酒厂

第三十六节 皮谢乐(F. X. Pichler)酒厂

第三十七节 歇兹山人(Hirtzberger)酒厂

第三十八节 克诺(Knoll)酒厂

第三十九节 科文兹-罗马霍夫(Kollwentz-Römerhof)酒厂

第四十节  库孜勒(Krutzler)酒厂

第四十一节 莱特(Leth)酒厂

第四十二节 马乐(Malat)酒厂

第四十三节 普法兹广场迈耶/ 红房子(Mayer am Pfarrplatz/Rotes Haus)酒厂

第四十四节 新师(Neumeister)酒厂

第四十五节 尼阁(Nigl)酒厂

第四十六节 欧特(Ott)酒厂

第四十七节 R & A 法佛(R & A Pfaffl)酒厂

第四十八节 布拉格(Prager)酒厂

第四十九节 胡帝·皮谢乐(Rudi Pichler)酒厂

第五十节  汉纳·萨吧(Hannes Sabathi)酒厂

第五十一节 所罗门-翁廷(Salomon-Undhof)酒厂

第五十二节 塞策(Setzer)酒厂

第五十三节 克雷姆斯城(Stadt Krems)酒厂

第五十四节 施托迈尔(Strohmeier Wein & Sektmanufaktur)酒厂

第五十五节 埃文·汀霍夫(Erwin Tinhof)酒厂

第五十六节 施福(Schiefer)酒厂

第五十七节 喜得酒(Weinrieder)酒厂

第五十八节 弗利兹·维纳格(Fritz Wieninger)酒厂

第四章 德国葡萄酒

第一节   德国葡萄酒分级和分类

第二节   德国VDP

第三节   德国葡萄酒印象

第四节      雷司令的王国

第五节   德国葡萄品种

第六节   德国起泡酒

第七节   德国葡萄酒产区

第五章 德国葡萄酒厂

第一节   莱纳·施纳特门(Rainer Schnaitmann)酒厂

第二节   阿尔丁格(Gerhard Aldinger)酒厂

第三节   道透尔(Dautel)酒厂

第四节   格豪夫·尼庞尔格(Graf Neipperg)酒厂

第五节   德奥斯-阿布莱(Drautz-Able)酒厂

第六节   人民医院(Bürgerspital)酒厂

第七节   尤烈尤斯医院(Juliusspital)酒厂

第八节   霍斯特绍尔(Horst Sauer)酒厂

第九节   汉斯·维尔盛(Hans Wirsching)酒厂

第十节   鲁道夫·福斯特(Rudolf Fürst)酒厂

第十一节  福斯特·石狮(Fürst Löwenstein)酒厂

第十二节  勾尔兹-兹利肯森林管理者(Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken)酒厂

第十三节  法恩·福克森(Van Volxem)酒厂

第十四节  冯·开世泰伯爵(Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)酒厂

第十五节  伊贡·米勒(Egon Müller Scharzhof)酒厂

第十六节  甘露女神(St. Urbans-Hof)酒厂

第十七节  佛雷斯·哈格(Fritz Haag)酒厂

第十八节  丽首尔城堡(Schloss Lieser)酒厂

第十九节  鲁森博士(Dr. Loosen)酒厂

第二十节  普朗(Joh. Jos. Prüm)酒厂

第二十一节 玛库斯·莫里托(Markus Molitor)酒厂

第二十二节 赛巴赫(Selbach-Oster) 酒厂

第二十三节 克雷门斯·布什(Clemens Busch)酒厂

第二十四节 海门-石狮(Heymann-Löwenstein)酒厂

第二十五节 玛雅-尼克(Meyer-Näkel)酒厂

第二十六节 海哥医生(Dr. Heger)酒厂

第二十七节 莎尔维(Salwey)酒厂

第二十八节 雨博(Bernhard Huber)酒厂

第二十九节 克勒·黑鹰(Franz Keller)酒厂

第三十节  约翰山堡(Schloss Johannisberg)酒厂

第三十一节 维特曼(Wittmann)酒厂

第三十二节 乔治波(Georg Breuer)酒厂

第三十三节 贡德洛(Gunderloch)酒厂

第三十四节 孔斯勒(Franz Künstler)酒厂

第三十五节 莱茨(Leitz)酒厂

第三十六节 罗伯万(Robert Weil)酒厂

第三十七节 绚波城堡(Schloss Schönborn)酒厂

第三十八节 齐尔爱森(Ziereisen)酒厂

第三十九节 克里斯曼(A. Christmann)酒厂

第四十节  巴塞曼-约旦(Bassermann-Jordan)酒厂

第四十一节 贝克(Friedrich Becker)酒厂

第四十二节 克力普(Knipser)酒厂

第四十三节 科勒-鲁布希特(Koehler-Ruprecht)酒厂

第四十四节 科乌(Peter Jakob Kühn)酒厂

第四十五节 葡木(Ökonomierat Rebholz)酒厂

第四十六节 布尔(Reichsrat von Buhl)酒厂

第四十七节 威海姆(Dr. Wehrheim)酒厂

第四十八节 凯瑟勒(August Kesseler)酒厂

第四十九节 布克林-沃夫(Dr. Bürklin-Wolf)酒厂

第五十节  迪沃(Schlossgut Diel)酒厂

第五十一节 顿霍夫(Dönnhoff)酒厂

第五十二节 凯勒(Keller)酒厂

第五十三节 富豪(Schloss Vollrads)酒厂

第五十四节 福利希(Schäfer-Fröhlich)酒厂

第五十五节 特希(Tesch)酒厂

第五十六节 维宁(von Winning)酒厂

第五十七节 熏蕾本(Emrich-Schönleber)酒厂

第五十八节 撒姆王子(Prinz Salm)酒厂

第六章 阿尔萨斯葡萄酒

第一节   阿尔萨斯葡萄酒管制

第二节   阿尔萨斯的概况

第三节   阿尔萨斯葡萄品种

第七章 阿尔萨斯葡萄酒厂

第一节   苔丝美人(Marcel Deiss )庄园

第二节   婷芭克世家(Trimbach)酒厂

第三节   雨果(Hugel & Fils)酒厂

第四节   约瑟夫·喀腾(Joseph Cattin)酒厂

第五节   阿伯曼(Domaine Albert Mann)庄园

第六节   阿伯堡(Albert Boxler)酒厂

第七节   约迈(Domaine Josmeyer)庄园

第八节   马克·来登万(Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss)庄园

第九节   奥斯特塔(Domaine Ostertag)庄园

第十节   保罗·布朗(Domaine Paul Blanck)庄园

第十一节  罗利-盖斯曼(Rolly-Gassmann)酒厂

第十二节  万巴赫(Domaine Weinbach)庄园

第十三节  锌得-洪堡(Domaine Zind-Humbrecht)庄园

第八章 资料篇

第一节   评分标准

第二节   品种名称中外文对照

第三节                  参考资料和书籍

◆ 前言————————————————————————————————————————


By吴书仙(Susie Wu)

本书是我与奥地利作者迈克尔·托纳(Michael Thurner)合著的一本关于奥地利、德国、法国的阿尔萨斯地区的葡萄酒产区工具书。本书中文名为《白葡萄酒经典》,英文名为Cool Climate Wines,主要是为了凸显奥地利、德国、法国阿尔萨斯作为全球最为重要的白葡萄酒产区的地位。

在酒厂的选择方面,奥地利酒厂由迈克尔来挑选,德国和法国阿尔萨斯的酒厂则由我提供名单,迈克尔和德国著名酒评家斯特凡·赖因哈特(Stephan Reinhardt)先生一起来筛选。可以说,奥地利、德国、法国阿尔萨斯出产优质葡萄酒的重要酒厂几乎都已经涵盖在内了。

我与迈克尔分头拜访奥地利、德国后,再一同前往法国阿尔萨斯走访不同的酒厂。我拜访了65 家酒厂,品尝了1,300 多款葡萄酒;迈克尔则拜访了66 家酒厂,品尝酒的数目与我相差无几。在德国时,斯特凡·赖因哈特先生全程陪同。




虽然我曾数次去德国葡萄酒产区拜访过,且这次的集中拜访总共耗时42 天,但要写清楚奥地利、德国两个国家和法国阿尔萨斯一个产区仍嫌紧凑,且三个地域的跨度也相当大,故书中难免有不足和不够透彻之处,还望读者体谅!特别是德语区的葡萄酒如此丰富繁杂,要真正展现出来,真的是一个很大的挑战。



◆ 序言————————————————————————————————————————


By 迈克尔·托纳(Michael Thurner)

说起中国,人们往往会想到她的国饮——茶,但中国酿制葡萄酒的历史其实也非常悠久。据文献记载,公元前2000 年的中国就已经开始酿造葡萄酒了。在欧洲谈起“中国和葡萄酒”,人们首先想到的是中国人对于如拉菲(Château Lafite)之类的波尔多特级酒庄的尊崇。可以肯定的是,葡萄酒在中国人的日常饮料中还是扮演着很不重要的角色,含酒精饮料里依然是黄酒、啤酒和烈性白酒占比较重要的地位。





我本人来自奥地利,这里也有2000 年以上悠久的葡萄酒酿制历史,尤其是近20 年来,奥地利的葡萄酒,主要是多瑙河流域的绿魁和雷司令,拥有了一定的国际影响力。在维也纳的东南部甚至出产了一款全球最好的黑皮诺。从20 世纪90 年代初开始,奥地利就产出了有着诱人果味、有张力的单宁以及美好的酸度结构的红葡萄酒,特别是来自布尔根兰的赤轩素。来自新民湖的甜酒,几百年来都是世界上最抢手的贵腐酒。芳香酒的爱好者则可在奥地利南部的施泰尔马克找到在极端条件下生产的世界上最香气芬芳的长相思。




现在您手中的这本书是第一本系统介绍德国、奥地利和法国阿尔萨斯葡萄酒的中文书。它向您介绍了来自上述地区的将近130 座酒庄出产的最高质量和最知名的葡萄酒。我专程拜访了其中的66 家酒庄,品评了他们的酒,并始终考虑了这些酒和中国菜肴的搭配。



◆ 新闻稿————————————————————————————————————————

吴书仙 首部凉爽地区葡萄酒书隆重推出


中国首位独立酒评人吴书仙女士与奥地利葡萄酒局前主席、葡萄酒专家迈克尔·托纳先生合著的《白葡萄酒经典》(Cool Climate Wines,可直译为:凉爽产区葡萄酒)一书由北京世纪文景文化传播有限责任公司于2011年出版。这是第一本关于德语区葡萄酒文化的中文书籍,本书全面而详细地介绍了奥地利、德国、法国的阿尔萨斯地区的葡萄酒文化。





◆ 内文选摘———————————————————————————————————————



从葡萄酒产区来看,奥地利、德国、法国阿尔萨斯已经是冷凉地区,其出产的葡萄酒被人们称为凉爽气候葡萄酒(Cool Climate Wines)。


从欧洲葡萄酒产区来看,西班牙、葡萄牙、意大利南部、法国南部阳光强,总体气候比较温暖,出产的葡萄酒酒精度高、果味成熟、酒体丰厚,但有时也会过熟,除了雪莉酒外,这些地方还是红葡萄酒的比例高。而北欧的德国、奥地利和法国阿尔萨斯等地区气候凉爽的地方,能出产优质的白葡萄酒,这些酒有自然愉悦的酸度和清新迷人的花香、爽口的水果气息,且这些地区70% 以上都出产白葡萄酒。



他们可以将每一个不同葡萄园的不同的葡萄品种分开酿酒,而且他们的葡萄园地块也分布在不同的葡萄园中,少则几个,多则40—50 个甚至更多,通常能在这三个地区的酒厂里发现各种不同型号的不锈钢罐和橡木桶。













奥地利、德国和法国阿尔萨斯都是历史悠久的葡萄酒产区,在罗马时期已经大面积地种植酿酒葡萄,有的葡萄园相当古老,很多葡萄园都有自己独立的名字,而且这些名字一直沿用至今,如德国有2,658 个葡萄园是有名字的,奥地利有名字的葡萄园也很多,法国阿尔萨斯单一葡萄园和特级葡萄园基本上也都有名字,很多酒厂会在酒标上标出葡萄园的名字,特别是他们的顶级葡萄酒。


在这些地区,一个酒厂通常在不同的葡萄园有大小不等的地块,有的在30—50 个葡萄园都有自己的地块,有的甚至更多。如果每个地块的单一品种都酿造一款酒,酒的品种自然也就非常之多。

世界上最陡峭和最险峻的山坡葡萄园大多数在德国,尤其摩泽尔河流域,这里的葡萄园最陡峭的坡度达80 度,在这种葡萄园里从上往下看,有恐高症的人可能会晕倒,站都站不稳。而这里的人们却要在葡萄园中劳作,可想而知其辛苦的程度。然而越陡峭的葡萄园往往越好,由于坡度越陡,接受河面的反光就越好,葡萄树的采光也越足。当然,河边的葡萄园和山坡上的葡萄园一般都是中间地段最好,因为中间地段刚好能享受到河水的反光。葡萄园地势过高,河水反射不到;而太靠河的葡萄园会受到河水产生的雾气的影响,容易生霉病,好的霉是贵腐霉,不好的则是灰霉。此外这些陡峭的葡萄园基本上是铺满石块的,石块在白天接受温暖的光照,晚上会释放出来,增加葡萄树的有效积温,提高葡萄的成熟度。




By Curtis Marsh | Wine Feng Shui | Related to: , , , | 1 comment

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One comment to The Wandering Palate – Best of the Lunar Year – Wine Book of the Year 2011 – Cool Climate Wines 媒体资料白葡萄酒经典 by Michael Thurner & Susie Wu | Comments Feed

  • Susan says

    I suppose that sounds and sllmes just about right.

    February 17, 2012
  • The comments are closed.