If you happen to have some 1997 Domaine Guy Duflouleur Santenay ‘Clos Genets’, I would suggest leaving it for another 5 years yet.

At 13 years in bottle, this wine is still very youthful and when first opened quite primary and nervy in acidity, breathing out nicely over half an hour or so to reveal more generosity in fruit and texture, although accented on red currant and red cherry with a lingering sweetness and spicy, aniseed farewell.

Incredible really, a humble appellation of Santenay looking like it will cruise up to 20 years, and beyond… Ah, don’t you just love pinot noir.