Cotes du Rhone Rouge Belleruche 2005 Southern Rhone Valley, France
Côtes du Rhône Rouge Belleruche 2005 Southern Rhone Valley, France

The quintessential BBQ red wine of the year. If you’re like me when it comes to the BBQ, neither the apparatus nor the chef seem to function adequately without a glass of red in a free hand. The enticing, smoky incense of broiling pork cutlets or sirloin tease the olfactory senses in the direction of a wholesome red.

It might seem a little late in the season to be naming the quintessential BBQ red wine of the year. However, in the subtropical parts of Asia, this is actually the most conducive time for outdoor entertainment — if you can breathe at all outside in Hong Kong at present.

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The Great Pretender
Hermitage in the Northern Rhone Valley slopes

Many wine lovers consider the 1961 Paul Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle Rouge to be one of the great wines; unfortunately it is very scarce. So is there an equivalent in the offing?

In conversation at a recent wine dinner, the subject turned to the staggering price that a case of 1961 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle fetched at Christie’s Fine and Rare Wine Auction in London, a staggering GBP123,750 (HK$945187.00) inclusive of taxes and premiums, a European record for a single case of wine. The conversation then turned to the vintages of La Chapelle that might potentially be the equal of the enduring 1961. According to the vintage charts, the 1978 and 1990 are the obvious candidates.

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A tale of two regions
Highbank Vineyard Terra Rossa soil, Australia

The best cabernet sauvignons from Australia and France are arguably of equal quality, but one has ended up on supermarket shelves, the other in the best of wine cellars.

The wine regions of Coonawarra in South Australia and Bordeaux, France have a great deal in common, sharing similar climate and geology (terroir), varietal composition, and even comparable quality during Coonawarra’s epoch. Yet, today, they are poles apart, with Bordeaux surging ahead in prosperity, superiority and finesse in its wines.

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Rebirth in Bordeaux
Chateau Branaire Ducru, built in 1824

The French region is enjoying an extraordinary period of prosperity for a variety of reasons, writes Curtis Marsh.

While I continue to refer to regions such as Bordeaux in France and Coonawarra in Australia as “old” and “new world”, I sometimes wonder which is more abreast of pertinent technology and how to best balance it with tradition and nature. There have been exponential advancements in viticulture and winemaking over the past 20 years. Many timeless methodologies have also been maintained. However, advances in the science of chemistry and botany, alongside mechanical ingenuity, has interjected to a point where we are in danger of artificially synthesizing an otherwise purely natural beverage.

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Buying Wine, Profiled Wineries | Related to: , | 5 comments
Ridge of no return
Patricia Gallagher, Steven spurrier & Odette Kahn 1976 tasting in Paris

The sensational results of a tasting in Paris more than 30 years ago forever changed the way American wines were considered, writes Curtis Marsh.

America’s most prodigious Bordeaux-style blend – the legendary Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello from the Santa Cruz Mountains – turns 45 years old this year.

Reaching this milestone is only part of the motive for writing this article, notwithstanding that I hail from the same vintage, further inspiration comes from my affinity with Ridge, the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello cabernet was the first American wine I had ever tried, and remains to this day, one of the most profound and indelible wine experiences.

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The grape and the grill
M. Chapoutier Cotes du Rhone vineyard, France

For many summer means BBQs, and a great refreshing accompaniment is a glass of chilled red wine, writes Curtis Marsh.

In the heat of the summer months, even the most ardent red wine drinkers gravitate towards white wines, perhaps the more savvy new age imbiber indulging in rose.

However, if you are like me when it comes to the BBQ, both the apparatus and cook just do not seem to function adequately without a glass of red in your free hand. Notwithstanding, the enticing smoky, meaty incense of broiling pork cutlet’s or succulent sirloins teasing the olfactory senses in the direction of a wholesome red. Apologies if you are vegetarian.

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Henriot Millesime 1998 Champagne, France
Henriot Millesime Champagne 1998, France

My exposure to champagne is not as comprehensive as in the United Kingdom or US markets, as we do not see many of the excellent smaller houses and grower champagnes in Asia.

However, this Henriot Millesime was selected from three blind (masked bottles) champagne tastings I participated in in 2007 and it was unquestionably the standout wine amongst 116 different wines sampled.

Furthermore, it was unanimously rated the best wine in a line-up of 38 prestige or luxury cuvee, including Dom Perignon, ironically the Henriot 1998 being their standard vintage offering and mistakenly included in the tasting.

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Wine Review
Many bottles of wines

Curtis Marsh shares why it’s impossible to make up his mind when it comes to a favourite wine.

Whenever I’m asked, “What is your favourite wine?” I reply, “The wine I haven’t tried yet”, emphasising that I gain the most pleasure in discovering new taste sensations.

The fact is: I have a wandering palate for food and wine, greatly influenced by my mood and by different cuisines, although inevitably, there are certain flavours, varieties and regions I enjoy more than others.

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Maison Trimbach Riesling 2005 Alsace, France
Maison Trimbach Riesling 2005

Most Consistent and Best Quality – Price Rapport White Wine of the Year 2007

Winery Profile

Twelve generations of Trimbachs have prevailed since 1626 over this pre-eminent Alsace house, an unbroken line unthinkable in the new world. The collaboration of time-honored knowledge and skills always impresses me. Maison Trimbach commands the greatest respect from fine wine lovers universally. Their Clos Sainte Hune vineyard, which they have owned for two centuries, is the most distinguished single vineyard in Alsace and produces arguably the finest dry riesling in the world.

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Hermitage La Chapelle Rouge – Part 2
Paul Jaboulet vineyard

Following on from the first instalment on Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage in our last edition of the Asian Wine Journal, it is quite possible that I am becoming obsessed with La Chapelle and perhaps suffering from autosuggestion

My deprivation and craving to try the legendary 1990 was more than satisfied on a recent trip to France, in Bordeaux of all places! Well, at least that’s where the story begins. Participating in the 2007 en Primeur tastings, I was a guest of the Frey family, consummate hosts and my lodgings at the impeccably renovated Château La Lagune. Indeed, an auspicious circumstance if not nostalgic, recollecting my early days as a sommelier, Château La Lagune being amongst the first Bordeaux wines I cut my teeth on.

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