While Asia has long been smitten with all things upmarket, when it comes to wine there is more satisfaction to be had in understanding aspects other than price, writes Curtis Marsh.

Saturday, January 20, 2007

I am working my way through a fascinating book The Cult of the Luxury Brand: Inside Asia's Love Affair With Luxury by Radha Chadha and Paul Husband (publisher Nicholas Brealey, www.cultoftheluxurybrand.com).

Co-authored by two experts with ringside views of Asia's luxury cult, they explain the paradox of simultaneously pumping up a product's status while pumping it out to the masses. Rationalizing why Asians are buying Western luxury brands, the authors delve into why a region so rich in its own tradition and culture yearns for Western designer labels, as well as predicting the course of emerging markets such as China.

As written in the preamble: "The authors demonstrate how the continent's massive economic and social transformation is dismantling centuries-old ways of defining your place in society, and how your spot on today's social totem pole is marked by your Chanel suit and your Cartier watch."

Although there is no mention of bordeaux red wine in this book, I am compelled to put forward the observation that the tacit status associated with first growth bordeaux parallels this love affair with luxury brands, as witnessed by the prodigious demand throughout the Asia market.

I recall sitting next to the owner of a prominent Hong Kong Cantonese restaurant a few years ago whereupon a line-up of the best Australian whites and reds were paired impeccably with the cuisine. It was clear he was unimpressed with the wines until coming across the Jasper Hill Georgia's Paddock Shiraz, where his discernable grunt of appreciation and obvious preference for reds with some substance prompted me to enquire on what he prefers to drink or serve to his personal guests. He replied explicitly: "Only first growth if you are a friend, otherwise second growth if I do not know you so well."

Incidentally, Jasper Hill is one of the most iconic Australian boutique vineyards, crafting tiny quantities of biodynamic, terroir-driven, texturally elegant, yet profound shiraz; an iron fist in a velvet glove. Available through Everwise Cellar Club (Tel: 3426 9988).

On another occasion, I was invited to a dinner, again at a Cantonese restaurant, where all the first growths from the 1996 vintage were served to a worshipping, predominantly Asian male audience. As I suspected of this tough, slow maturing vintage, none of the wines showed well, looking tannic and unyielding, still in a state of hibernation and unlikely to metamorphose for another 10 years (it was 2003 at the time). Moreover, red bordeaux does not pair well with steamed whole fish with ginger! However, nobody said a disparaging word, naively content to have indulged in such luxury.

Again, the paradox of this luxury is that none of these wines are rare; in fact, they are produced in enormous quantities relative to, say, the artisan producers of burgundy or cult Californian cabernets. Chateau Lafite-Rothschild produces a whopping 30,000 cases a year, Chateau Mouton Rothschild 23,000 cases, or Chateau Latour 20,000 cases.

Far be it for me to be ranting on like a wine socialist. Should money be no object, it is your prerogative to drink first growth bordeaux and, after all, life is too short to drink bad wine. Doubtless the Bordeaux vignerons are content monopolizing the assimilation of Asian palates. However, there should be more edification about the fact that these wines are seldom approachable before 10 to 20 years in bottle, unless the vintage dictates otherwise, and many are destined to live for 40 or 50 years, perhaps longer.

I also suspect that many Asians, just like Caucasians, regardless of their wealth, appreciate good value or, even better, a bargain. The greatest value and bargains in today's highly competitive world of wine is the mid-ground, where passionate, dedicated owner-operators are trying harder than ever to gain recognition and an edge.

A wine bargain is certainly not defined by how cheap the price or sizable the discount is, with industrial sized wineries manufacturing wines to meet sensitive price points and quick to adjust to any market influences. It is easy to price a wine 30 percent higher so that it may be heavily discounted.

Likewise, you will not find value wines if you join the herd chasing glamorous vintages or high Robert Parker scores.

The most personally gratifying part of compotation is in cellaring wine, and this can be achieved in the short term and conveniently within your home.

There is an exponential and natural change in certain varieties or wine styles in a relatively short period in bottle, as little as two-to-four years. Defining which wines are enjoyable in the shorter term is not an exact science, however it can be approached logically by deducing winemaking techniques and winery profiles. (My next article will expand on short term cellaring wines along with some suggestions.)

I can assure you, there is more intellectual satisfaction to be had - not to mention the added impression your vinous prowess will make on guests - in liberating a bottle of Premier Cru Chablis or Chianti Classico that has been stored in ideal conditions in your wine cabinet for a number of years. (If you missed my previous article on the importance of transporting and storing wine, Internet search "Curtis Marsh, The Standard, Handle with care".)

The number of wine cabinet brands available is no less confusing than any other kitchen appliance. Transtherm, Bosch, Brandt, Electrolux, Liebherr and Gaggenau all espouse greatness, meeting all number of stringent requirements, the last two names prohibitively expensive and targeting designer- conscious Europeans.

The fact is that most brands will fail to meet one strategic criterion: no vibration. The most reliable, state-of-the-art wine cabinet is the pioneering Eurocave. While they are not inexpensive, neither are they over-priced, and are more affordable than some of the inferior brands I have mentioned.

It is important not to confuse a single temperature wine cabinet meant for cellaring with a multi-temperature service cabinet meant for serving wine at optimum temperature. The former is specifically for cellaring at a constant temperature, ideally around 12 degrees Celsius, while maintaining humidity at 70 percent and blocking ultra violet light.

A word of advice, do not opt for glass door versions that are more expensive. While it may be more evocative to have your wines in view, it only lets in unnecessary light, with the bottles often obscured by condensation anyway.

To view the new generation Eurocave models, visit www.eurocave.com and http://new.eurocave.com. My pick is the V283 for cellaring, the largest model in the classic range, holding 206 bottles and retailing from HK$20,000.

For a multi-temperature service cabinet, I like the S059 in the compact range, retailing from HK$16,000, with temperature scaling from seven to 21 C, and with up to 10 different temperature zones to allow for Champagne, white, rose and red. It will hold 52 bottles, more than sufficient I would think for home use and a perfect accompaniment to a cellaring cabinet.

Eurocave is available direct from the Hong Kong agent, Alpha International Food Services (Tel: 2889 2123, www.eurocave-alpha.com), or from selected kitchen and home appliance stores.

In Singapore, Fine Brands Pte Ltd, (Tel: 6773 7060 eurocave@finebrands.com.sg), also from selected kitchen and home appliance stores. Try Rina Electrical, Level 5, shop 2/3, Shaw Centre, (Tel: 7374 4351) who have a good range and service.

“Curtis Marsh, a veteran wine importer and sommelier, is an Asia-based writer on wine, food and travel.”

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