Short-term cellaring experiments with the right wines can return excellent results, writes Curtis Marsh.

Saturday, February 3, 2007

I recently emphasized the benefits of short-term bottle aging of wine (Weekend Standard, January 27-28), a subject which requires elaboration.

This is not an exact science and, moreover, is highly subjective. But regardless of perspective, one should always approach this optimistically as a stimulating experiment.

Short-term cellaring (one to five years bottle aging) in correct conditions will facilitate appreciable evolution for many wines, delivering considerable gratification in a relatively brief period.

With regard to white wines, some simply need a year or two to settle and allow primary ferment characters to dissipate and recover from the bottling process, or even bottle shock from shipping. Riesling is a prime example of this, most enjoyable in its exuberant youth even though it is the most age worthy of all white varieties.

Riesling is fermented and matured in a stainless steel tank (although sometimes large inert wooden casks are used in Alsace and Germany), but essentially is "made in the vineyard" and with minimal intervention in the winemaking process, expressive of regional characteristics and the minerals from the soils in which it is planted in.

The Alsace region in France produces outstanding riesling alongside other white varieties that are among the finest in the world, with tremendous potential for short-term bottle aging.

Focusing on achieving short-term fulfillment, it is important not to be seduced by the supremacy of grand cru or late-harvest wines, as they can go into a long hibernation after two or three years in bottle and are capable of maturing for 20 years or more.

Too often entry-level Alsace riesling, pinot gris and gewurztraminer are relegated and ignored. However, there are bountiful excellent value, impeccably made wines that require only two to five years bottle age to transcend their elementary fruit and develop complex secondary aromas, revealing more minerals and personality, with added texture and harmonious acidity.

Looking at Alsace riesling, Maison Trimbach is a perfect illustration, producing the undisputed benchmark Grand Cru Riesling Clos Sainte Hune (which needs at least seven years before broaching). Notwithstanding their superb Cuvee Frederic Emile, it is easy to overlook their standard cuvee. Yet, this is seriously good riesling, the 2004 vintage outstanding value at HK$139 per bottle (Fine Vintage, Tel: 2896 6108).

Alsace pinot gris can be somewhat abstruse when young, in a vinous "no- man's-land" with its gummy, peachy sweetness. But with three to four years bottle age, it can take on covetable aged white burgundy connotations. Once its tropical, peachy-apricot fruit subsides, integrating with often-present botrytis nuances and conventional extended lees contact aromas (dead yeast cells that accumulate at the bottom of tank or barrel) it takes on mealy, nougat, nutty- butterscotch characters and the palate becomes buttery and glycerol-textured.

There are many outstanding Alsace producers attaining impressive consistency: Paul Blanck, Marc Kreydenweiss, Zind-Humbrecht, Weinbach, Schlumberger, Trimbach, Hugel, Marcel Deiss, Josmeyer, Kuentz-Bas, Albert Mann and Osterag.

There are also several new world producers making high quality pinot gris, tending towards dry and off-dry and more approachable in style, improving substantially with two or three years bottle age. Those from New Zealand include Astrolabe, Bilancia, Chard Farm, Dry River, Escarpment, Kumeu River, Neudorf, Quartz Reef and Seresin. Worth seeking out from Australia are Bay of Fires, Iron Pot Bay, Madew, Moorooduc Estate, Mondarra, Nepenthe, Scorpo, Ten Minutes by Tractor, Tuck's Ridge, T'Gallant and Spring Vale.

The top rieslings of Germany and Austria (more so in the Wachau) that have high levels of residual sugar, in my opinion, require much longer cellaring - realistically a minimum of five and preferably 10 years to evolve from being simplistically sweet. However, there are some top-class dry rieslings (Trocken) coming from Germany, primarily from the Pfalz region where

Dr Burklin-Wolf is the leading producer. Also from Pfalz, look for Joseph Biffar, Christmann; from Rheinhessen, Keller and Wittmann; from Rheingau, Georg Breuer; from Baden, Andreas Laible.

In Austria, be careful not be seduced by the Wachau Smaragd (which translates to sugar levels between spatlese and auslese), as they also need long- term cellaring. There is much potential for short-term cellaring with Austria's indigenous grape gruner veltliner, emulating white burgundy yet retaining a distinctive grapefruit-citrus quality and signature mineral and white pepper nuance. It may well be the dark horse in the global hierarchy of white grapes, with both Australia and New Zealand beginning to propagate it. Look for the following producers: Alzinger, Kurt Angerer, Eichinger Birgit, Brundlmayer, Nigl, Prager, FX Pichler, Ott and Undhof Salomon.

Producers in the Clare Valley of South Australia make racy, bone-dry, yet deliciously juicy and mouth- watering citrus-edged rieslings that can bloom in two to five years and are exceptional value. Look for: Jeffrey Grosset, Mount Horrocks and Mitchels; other regions include Jasper Hill, Crawford River and Tamar Ridge.

Despite the recent formidable rise of riesling, chardonnay is still viewed by many as the king of white wines, that is, if your preference is for oak- influenced, less-aromatic savory, texturally oily wines.

Chardonnay begins its life as a wine of many parts, disjointed largely by the winemaking process and the use of oak barrels. In complete contrast to riesling, chardonnay is greatly influenced by the winemaker with both the primary and secondary fermentation (malo-lactic) taking place in small oak barrels, with extended maturation. Chablis is the exception, predominantly unoaked and the purist expression of the chardonnay grape.

It is indeed the oak component (often highly perfumed, toasty, vanillin new French oak) that is the core issue concerning chardonnay, generally requiring a minimum of two to three years bottle aging to achieve harmonious integration of aromas, flavors and tannins and allow fruit and minerals through. Adding to the opaqueness, there are dominating yeasty characteristics from the extended contact and batonage (stirring) of the lees and malo-lactic fermentation that will in time, take on more mealy, nutty, caramel and buttery complexity.

Chardonnay is the grape equivalent of the chameleon, adapting easily to any environment, as witnessed by its success in the new world. However, it reaches it meridian in Burgundy and Chablis.

Further south in the Macconais, the wines of Pouilly-Fussie, St-Veran and Macon-Villages are of increasing merit and particularly good value, requiring only two or three years to show well.

Most of these appellations, apart from the grand crus and distinguished premier crus, will start drinking well after two or three years, the 2002 vintage a good example of this. There is a stampede at the moment for the highly rated (and priced) 2005s, however do not overlook 2004s, which are keenly priced and very good short-term wines.

The most underrated appellation and perfect short-term prospect is St Aubin, situated just behind the hill of Le Montrachet. The star producer here is Marc Colin, but also look for Hubert Lamy. My absolute favorite in Chablis is Billaud-Simon, indisputably the top producer of the non-oaked style; any of their premier cru vineyards are ideal short-term wines.

Australia and New Zealand have come of age with chardonnay, the best producers nipping at the heels of the French. Again, these wines will show well after two or three years. From Australia: Bindi Quartz, Giaconda, Jeffrey Grosset Piccadilly, Kooyong Faultline, Leeuwin Estate Art Series, Moorooduc Estate Wild Yeast, Shaw & Smith M3, Sorrenberg, TarraWarra and Wise Pemberton Reserve. From New Zealand: Ata Rangi Craighill, Kumeu River, Neudorf Moutere, Te Mata Estate Elston.

And finally, from the United States - rivalling France in every respect but often difficult to source and pricey - look for Au Bon Climat, Chateau Montelena, Hanzell, Kistler, Marcassin, Mount Eden, Patz and Hall Hyde, Peter Michael and Ridge.

“Curtis Marsh, a veteran wine importer and sommelier, is an Asia-based writer on wine, food and travel.”

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