There are several simple ways to avoid that morning-after headache, writes Curtis Marsh.

Saturday, March 18, 2006

A number of people have recently asked me "Why do I get a headache when I drink red wine, but not white wine?" Apart from the obvious possibility of over- consumption, the source of the problem will invariably be tannins.

Without getting too scientific, tannins or phenolic flavonoids come from the skin of the grapes and are a natural part of extracting color pigment in the fermentation process for red wine. When making white wine, the grape skins are removed at the crushing stage, prior to fermentation.

These grape tannins and flavonoids give red wine much of its structure and provide the anti-oxidant compounds that facilitate bottle ageing.

There is a general belief among scientists that certain antioxidants found in grapes, peppers, onions, garlic, blue and red berries, green tea and buckwheat can play a role in preventing cancer, cardio-vascular diseases and ageing. It is also now proven that red wine can raise HDL cholesterol (the good cholesterol) and help prevent LDL cholesterol (the bad cholesterol) from forming. This is all based on the premise of moderate consumption.

Histamines in red wine may also cause headaches, especially low-acid reds made from grapes grown in warmer areas, however they are also present white wine. Relatively few people are that sensitive to such elements but if you are there is unfortunately no way of avoiding histamines, which are present in all fermented products.

There is also some misconception about the use of the anti-oxidant sulfur dioxide and its connection with headaches. If you consider sulfur is measured in parts per million (ppm), with the average wine containing less than 40 ppm, it is simply undetectable to all but the most highly trained technical palates. Besides, white wines generally have higher sulfur content than red wines. There are no wines that are entirely sulfur-free, even those labeled "organic"; however, you may find sulfur levels are excessively high in commercial, inexpensive wines, which are armoured for durability on supermarket shelves.

People's capability to consume red wine without side effects varies greatly, depending on their gender, body size and metabolic rate. Food most definitely helps counteract the effects of alcohol and also compliments the tannins in red wine, but in the context of a crowded bar or nightclub, circumstances my not be conducive to eating.

In these situations, the best way to prevent a headache is to drink pinot noir. We have a saying in the wine trade: "Pinot noir does not fight back." This red grape variety is naturally low in tannin and, in general, gentler and softly textured, but by no means lacking in flavor with plenty of juicy, red berry fruits sweetness and a pleasant, warming spiciness.

Unfortunately there is a premium attached to pinot noir, being one of the most temperamental varieties to produce, requiring a cool climate and relatively low yields, otherwise becoming dilute and losing flavor.

Thus, most Hong Kong bars and restaurants shy away from serving pinot noir by the glass as they cannot make the profits that can be achieved from varieties such as cabernet sauvignon. Some also mistakenly believe that pinot noir is too delicate to serve by the glass.

The best place to source affordable and approachable pinot noir is from the New World, specifically Australia and New Zealand. For the record, I am big fan of pinot noir from Burgundy in France, where the style tends to be more complex and savoury with naturally elevated acidity to enhance the structure and is ideally consumed with food.

There are copious examples of good, easy drinking pinot noir to be had from the Australian state of Victoria. Its capital city Melbourne has a rich restaurant and cafe culture and there is a constant demand for modestly priced, yet sophisticated pinot noirs.

I tried a perfect example of this the other day, the 2002 Callahan's Pinot Noir, made by Tuck's Ridge winery on the Mornington Peninsula, an hour drive south of Melbourne. It is attractively perfumed with dark plummy and blueberry scents among some spicy herbal notes with a faint whiff of spearmint and eucalypt, a signature of many Australian pinot noirs. The palate is plush and sweet with ripe red cherries, plums and spiciness. The velvety texture with fine tannins and perky metallic acidity bring balance to the overall fruit sweetness of the wine.

It's truly pleasing at a reasonable price of HK$178 per bottle and is available through direct importer Boutique Wines, 1603 Horizon Plaza, Ap Lei Chau (www.boutiquewines.com.hk, tel: 2872-4234).

Should you be in a social situation where pinot noir is unavailable by the glass, try to avoid high tannin reds such as cabernet sauvignon and shiraz.

Grenache-based wines from the southern France appellation of Cotes du Rhone are also user-friendly, as most have little or no wood maturation and are made for early consumption. Italian reds in general tend to be higher in tannin and acidity, especially nebbiolo (Barolo), caniole (Amarone) and are intentionally built to be drunk with food. You could try sangiovese (Chianti), valpolicella from Veneto or barbera from Piemonte.

Another problem associated with ordering wine by the glass is that poorly kept bottles suffer oxidisation after opening. You should always taste the wine first before accepting it, and do not be afraid to knock it back and ask for a fresh bottle to be opened. I must say I was impressed by the highly professional, Italian-made Enomatic wine by the glass dispenser at La Fourchette in Pacific Place.

Above all, it is imperative that you pace your consumption otherwise your liver will not cope with breaking down the alcohol. And, if you can remember, for every glass of wine drink at least one large glass of water.

“Curtis Marsh, a veteran wine importer and sommelier, is an Asia-based writer on wine, food and travel.”

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