The complex terroirs of southern Australia allow the variety immense expression, writes Curtis Marsh.

Saturday, April 1, 2006

Having touched on the merits of pinot noir from the southern Australian state of Victoria in my last column, I hardly did it justice by featuring only one wine. There are hundreds of top-quality examples coming from this cool-climate region energized by a sophisticated wine market and the state capital Melbourne's abundant restaurants and cosmopolitan lifestyle.

Victoria's diversity of climate is complex and, coupled with the capricious nature of pinot noir, ensures a kaleidoscope of styles. Although latitude is an important influence, many other factors are involved in differentiating microclimates, such as distance from the coast and ocean temperatures, prevailing winds (sometimes straight from the Antarctic) and altitude of the vineyard.

Pinot noir also expresses its terroir (soil and location) to a greater extent than most other grape varieties. While most pinot noir enthusiasts acknowledge the variety reaches its meridian in the terroirs of Grand Cru Burgundy, Australia has its own unique terroirs, with a myriad of deeply weathered soil types, some dating back 400 million years, rich in nutrients and minerals, which contribute greatly to the complexity of its wines.

The winemaker's skills, philosophies and personality have considerable bearing on the finished wine, with Australian vignerons making full use of new technology, whether it is the latest rootstocks and varietal clones in the vineyard or state-of-art equipment for the winery. At the same time, they can utilize traditional or "old world" techniques but not be constrained by them.

There is growing interest in New World pinot noir and a curiosity about how the variety expresses itself outside of Burgundy. There is also an awareness that these wines can offer more consistency with agreeable primary fruit sweetness and rich textures, as well as the added attraction of coming together more quickly. Drinkable practically straight after bottling, they are also capable developing the much- revered earthy, gamy secondary complexities with a few years aging.

Melbourne’s dress circle of pinot noir is less than two hours drive at any point of the compass with the top wines in high demand locally, selling out quickly upon release. However, most producers are happy to see a small amount trickled to strategic export markets. Relatively unknown in Hong Kong, the wines I have chosen have the benefit of being a year or two older than current release and are leading representations of five major wine areas.

TarraWarra Estate is located at the warm eastern end of the Yarra Valley, 40 kilometres east of Melbourne. Owned by Marc and Eva Beson, this impressive property affirms ‘If you want to make a small fortune by owning a winery, start with a large fortune’.

The vines are now 20 years old, planted in soils comprising a thin layer of grey loam over clay with a microclimate largely protected from the prevailing southerly winds. There has been great improvement in the wines since dynamic winemaker Clare Halloran took over in 1996, not only refining the style, but adding some much needed pinot noir symmetry: behind this elegant pinot noir, there is an even more elegant woman winemaker.

From a relatively cool vintage with naturally high acidity and low yields, the 2002 TarraWarra Pinot Noir (HK$540) has a provocative aroma of blood plums, stewed rhubarb with cinnamon spice; some intriguing yeasty, sour dough bread scents are among more herbal tones with flinty, metallic acidity and a whiff of spearmint. The palate is a crescendo of silken layers, rich in dark red berry fruits with a penetrating sweetness culminating by the incision of steely acidity and soft tannins. The spectrum of flavors oscillates towards herbal, earthy forest floor complexities with a warming spicy farewell. Its luscious style would convert even the most stalwart pinot noir skeptic. (Available through Rare and Fine Wines. E-mail: kkwong@rarenfinewines.com.hk, tel: 2522 9797.)

Just an hour’s drive south of Melbourne, on the eastern side of Port Philip Bay, is the scenic Mornington Peninsula, with its beautiful beaches and mosaic of rolling hills punctuated by copious boutique vineyards. Melbournian's flock here on the weekends, with all manner of attractions, wine tourism being a significant draw card. Visit this excellent website for more information: www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org.

To quote Master of Wine, Andrew Caillard, “The Mornington Peninsula is probably doing more for pinot noir than anywhere else. In a good vintage, this region is capable of making some of the most aromatic and silky pinot noirs in Australia.”

Ten Minutes By Tractor Wine Company is located at Main Ridge, the highest part of the Mornington Peninsula and sources fruit from three separate family-owned vineyards that just happen to be ten minutes apart by

tractor, hence the name. Owner Martin Spedding steers this dynamic newcomer to the Peninsula combining his passion for pinot noir with ingenious marketing, supported by impressive wines.

The wines are made by Dr Richard McIntyre at Moorooduc Estate, one of the pioneering winemakers of Mornington Peninsula and a pinot noir master. This silky aromatic style of pinot noir has added complexity from wild yeast fermentation (the vineyard’s native yeasts start the fermentation naturally) imparting earthy, fungal aromas.

The 2003 Ten Minutes by Tractor Reserve Pinot Noir (HK$415) begins with flinty, cold metal. It opens up to fragrant red cherry and juniper berry, turning gamy with grilled meats, dried cepes among toasty oak and a little spearmint. The palate is plush and creamy (praise to no filtration) with rich dark cherry fruit, blood plums, and roasted beetroot with a warming spiciness, finishing with a tangy metallic edge. It has a suave style with plenty of power yet finesses. (Available through Rare and Fine Wines.)

Moondarra vineyard is located two hours drive southeast of Melbourne in the Gippsland Mountain River Districts. This is windswept cattle country surrounded by rugged pine forests complete with wild boar and deer.

Owner Neil Prentice is outwardly friendly and excentric with a Spike Milligan glaze, perhaps best described in Australian colloquial terms as ‘having a few Kangaroos loose in the top paddock’. He is extremely passionate about pinot noir and subscribes to biodynamic farming methods and miniscule yields of less than one tonne to the acre. His wines are powerful and extractive; a combination of the extremely low yields and the grapes undergoing ten days maceration, including some whole bunches, prior to fermentation.

The 2003 Moondarra Conception Pinot Noir (HK$680) opens dark and briary. Charred timber and grilled beef meatiness are overtaken by concentrated stewed blueberry and black cherry fruit. There are secondary aromas of dark cooking chocolate, coffee grinds, and star anise among rusty iron, wet bluestone minerals, toasted almond, vanillin oak and a hint of eucalypt mint. It has a rich, layered, voluminous palate saturated in blackberry and black cherry flavors with powdery tannins and some stalky herbal characters, finishing with tangy acidity. (Available through direct importer, Merit Wine Boutique. E-mail: sales@meritwine.com.hk, tel: 2528 5028.)

On the western side of Port Philip Bay, southwest of Melbourne, it is an hour’s drive to Geelong and the gateway to the spectacular Great Ocean Road. Located at Bannockburn, 25 km north of Geelong, Bannockburn Vineyards legend Gary Farr, has established his own label called ‘By Farr’. He is equally respected in Burgundy having done countless vintages with Domaine Dujac. Gary’s surly composure camouflages his friendly, down-to-earth nature and genius in this field.

2003 By Farr Pinot Noir (HK$588) Drinkers of serious Burgundy will easily identify with this savory, gamy, powerful and tightly structured wine. It opens minerally with smoky, gunflint, wet slate and clay among a sweet fragrance of red cherry and toasty charred oak. Seductive secondary aromas include Chinese roast duck with five spice and star anise. The palate is sappy and tangy with red cherry and juniper berries accentuated by racy acidity, yet building into sweeter black cherry. Cooling fine tannins and cold steely acidity chase away the sweetness, giving the wine razor sharp, indelible length. This is a hedonistic wine that grows in the glass and is built to last for many more years in the bottle than most New World pinots. (Available at Watson's Wine Cellar. Tel: 2525 1237. www.watsonswine.com)

Less than an hours drive northwest from Melbourne are the Macedon ranges, the foothills of the Great Dividing Range. At 460 meters above sea level, this is the severest territory of Victoria’s cool-climate viticulture. The Dhillon family at Bindi Vineyards are unrivalled in this region, with their distinctive terroir, the soils comprising top layer of volcanic that is riddled with quartz rock. Initially nurtured by Burgundy patriarch Stuart Anderson, winemaker Michael Dhillon is now recognised as one of star producers of pinot noir in Australia.

The 2004 Bindi Original Vineyard Pinot Noir (HK$550) is exquisitely fragrant with ripe strawberries and raspberries, dried herbs with hints of lavender, mint and attractive toasty vanillin oak. The spicy palate is juicy with sweet red cherry, poached stone fruits and a silky texture. Seductive charred oak soaks up some of the sweetness, with soft tannins among tangy red currants and acidity. Warm cinnamon and clove spice linger on. It is a gentle, silky sweet, perfumed style with an ethereal `pinosity' that hits the spot for me. (Available through Merit Wine Boutique.)

“Curtis Marsh, a veteran wine importer and sommelier, is an Asia-based writer on wine, food and travel.”

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